Stand

Introduction

Well I upgraded from a 75gl. to a 90gl. ( I know it's not alot more but it's more)
So, I decided NEW tank=NEW stand, canopy, ect...

Construction

All of the materials used (exept for the 1/4'plywood) was left over stuff I had laying around from a remodle a year or so ago.
The OAK was 3, 60 inch long x 1 inch thick solid oak stair treads that I ripped down to 1/2 inch x 3 inch to skin it with.
The pine 2x4's & 2x6's were just some left over lumber.
So the cost for this stand and matching canopy was minamal, to say the least.

Top & bottom frame are 2x6's ripped in half...legs are 2x4's

Frame primed...(most of it anyways)

Skinned it in oak (1/2' solid & 1/4' oak plywood)

Another view...

Stand height...

Front of it...

Side...

Dental molding...

Finished building, now she needs some color...

Staining, Priming & Painting

A few pic's with it staind...

I had to get a small paint brush to get in the dental molding.
I cut a peice of 3/4 inch MDF board for the bottom of the stand.
The inside got primrd painted and clear coated at least 2 coats of each.

Doors

You caint realy see it good but here is a pic of the doors just put together to see how they fit.
The doors are quite simple; solid inch oak rails and stiles and 1/4 in. insert. I did round the out side edge of the doors so they would open alittle further; but nothing fancy.

Question from SevenEleven? (of ReefCentral?.com):
How did you cut the dadoes in the stiles of your doors? Router or on the TS? I just did my first panel door myself, was and choose to use the TS. Worked fine but I wondered if there was a better way.
A: Table saw as well. They came out ok although little warped.
I think my table saw if off by a degree or two. I cut a 3/8 in. wide gap to house the 1/4in. insert and made the top and bottom rails 3/4 in. longer to fit in the groves with the insert.