Introduction
Ok, excuse the humor, but hey, I'm not a professional woodworker either (I do however, work as a structural engineer - only 9 months until I can take the license exam!)I've posted and talked to people that were building their own stands, and since my purchase of a 100 gallon tank with the ugliest stand ever to be built, I thought this would be a good opportunity to show everyone my design that can be built with a minimum of woodworking skills, or tools.
I know that this design is SIMPLE, and I intentionally did it this way, so that anyone with a handsaw, drill, and a little patience can build a stand themselves. This is the 6th stand I've built, and you could say this is the culmination of all the corrections I've made.
I'm going to do this in two parts, since it's taken me almost two months to get just the frame built. Yes, having two children isn't TWICE as hard and time consuming as one...it's TEN TIMES as time consuming!!!
This first part will cover the frame - the second will cover the skin. I don't know for sure when I'll start the skin, but I'll post it as I get things done.
So, without further adieu......
Base Frame
The first step is to create a top and bottom frame. These frames start off completely identical. Well, mostly. I built both my top and bottom out of 2x4. You could use 2x6 for the top, and possibly not need center supports, but it depends on what size tank you're building for.I HIGHLY recommend you make the OUTSIDE dimensions of the frames 1/2" MORE than the OUTSIDE MEASUREMENTS OF THE PLASTIC TRIM RING AT THE BOTTOM OF YOUR TANK. Excuse all the caps...but if you don't have the play room, or try to build this to the glass dimensions, it won't work (remember, there is a skin, and trim coming later!!).
Here's a picture of the frame. Notice how the "short" sides run between the "long" front and back piece.
Here is how the frames are connected. Please make sure that your cuts are STRAIGHT. It's a lot easier to take your time and cut well, than to deal with problems later. Remember, measure twice, cut once.
These are 12d (12 penny) framing nails. I will tell you, nailing into the END of a piece of lumber is an AWFUL connection, it simply is NOT very strong. This is not a connection that will carry a load, it's simply holding things together.
You can use screws for this if you wish.
Supports
Next are the supports, legs, columns...whatever you want to call them.You may say that this is overkill, and it is for a small tank, but I'm building for a 100 gallon tank, and there are a few boring structural reasons I'm doing it this way - remember, I'm an engineer, and overly conservative - but my stuff NEVER falls down.
Here is a topdown view of what the finished supports look like. The two outside legs will bear directly on the bottom frame from above, and the top frame will bear directly on the top of them. The inside leg will run from the side of the top frame, down past the side of the bottom frame, to the floor.
The 2 pieces of the support that are parallel should be nailed together with those big 12d nails at 3" on center offset, as shown here.
The piece that is perpendicular will have the same nailing pattern, but each "row" of nails will be nailed into the side of one of the parallel pieces.
Support Base
So here's the connection at the base of the supports. I used a Simpson right angle connector (the steel piece you see) just for ease of construction. Rather than spend the big bucks on the Simpson screws, I just used the largest gage roofing nails that would fit! Note that the face of the connector is to the INSIDE of the stand.Also, note the two 1/4" lag bolts (3" long) that connect the full length (darker) piece to the bottom frame. You will also have two at the top, to connect to the top frame.
Also note that there is a SMALL gap (1/16") at the bottom of the full length support. It doesn't actually touch the ground. Again, just trust me on this one.
Here is the base, with all four legs attached. Note how the outer supports are all the same height, which will allow the top frame to bear directly on top of them. The top full height support will line up with the top of the upper frame.
How tall is this monstrosity you ask? The bottom of my tank will be 42" off the floor. You don't have to go this high, but I wouldn't try to go much higher with this design.
Since I built my top frame out of 2x4 instead of 2x6, I actually added center legs too - you'll see them soon.
Top Frame
Here is where your top frame becomes different from your base frame.You'll need to add cross members at 16" on center. Because the end-nailed condition I showed above is such a weak connection, I used Simpson joist hangers. These are cheap, and available at your local BORG. Use one at each end of your cross members. Again, I cheated price, and used large gage roofing nails ($1.50) instead of the $6 box of screws. DO put a nail in each hole!!!
You'll want these cross members to be the same depth/size as your top frame - ie, if you made a 2x6 top frame, use 2x6 cross members.
Once all your cross members are in place, you'll set the top frame on your four supports.
Side note here - if your stand is 5' long, and you space your cross members out equally, you end up with one in the dead center of the top. This is really a hinderance if you use center legs!!! I forgot about the center legs, and had to offset them in order to miss my cross member! This isn't a big deal with the door layout I intend on using, but it could be if you plan on using 4 doors. I should have used two cross members at the center, one on either side of the center leg.
Here is the frame completely together.
Next step - plywood surfaces!! (And time for me to take more pictures)
DIY Tank Stand for Dummies